Choosing the Right Metal Detector: 6 Questions Every Beginner Should Ask

So, you have made the decision to have a look into metal detecting. Maybe you’ve already read a few articles that got you excited to start swinging—Hold on! Read this guide first to make sure your decision is informed and your journey starts off on the right foot.  This guide will go through the key things you need to consider before hovering over that ‘buy now’ button… so let’s get right to it. 

Metal detecting is a rewarding and satisfying hobby for many reasons. Whether you are looking for some time out with the kids at the beach, or finally diving in post-retirement, this hobby is easy to get involved with. That said, choosing the right metal detector does require a bit of thought. We have whittled it down to 6 main questions you need to ask yourself before getting started to make sure you have made the right decision. 

1. Where are you going to detect? 

So, now you have an idea of where you want to go, but how do you apply that decision to the detector you buy? Why does it matter? 

There are various types of machines currently in widespread use and the most common machine type is VLF detector. 

VLF Machines

A VLF detector (Very Low Frequency) produces an electromagnetic field from the coil, which changes in strength when a conductive object passes in front of the coil. The detector can recognise the change to its magnetic field, and this is what causes it to alarm. These detectors have pros and cons- 

MF (Multi-Frequency) Machines

MF machines are technically VLF detectors but transmit multiple frequencies at once. They are sometimes referred to as SMF/FMF/MDMF depending on the brand of detector. It’s like using several detectors simultaneously—giving you better target identification, more accurate VDI numbers, improved discrimination, and a better target reaction to alert you to the target.  

PI (Pulse induction) machines

These machines are very specialised and are not needed by most. Pulse induction machines work more like a radar- They emit a pulse, and wait for a return signal. This makes them less sensitive to saltwater and mineralised soil, allowing deeper detection with fewer false signals. If you plan to focus mainly on gold prospecting or underwater detecting, this is likely the tech you’ll want.

So, you have an idea of your search site, and now you know the type of machine you need to search it efficiently. Next we will discuss the different needs of a detector, and how your choice in detector and coil can influence your experience. 

2. What are you looking for? 

Most people we ask this question to will respond with a quick shrug of the shoulders, and something along the lines of “i’m not sure” or “old stuff”. But whether it’s historical artifacts, rings on the beach, or gold nuggets in the outback, your answer determines the kind of machine you’ll need.

If you are going to metal detecting clubs and looking for artefacts and ancient coins, a VLF or MF machine will likely suit you best. These machines typically use a frequency range of 3.5-40Khz, and are better suited to field use and good discrimination. Using a machine of this type will reduce the amount of targets you dig, as they will let you know when they detect a rusty nail and it can safely be passed without investigation, leading you to spend more time digging the better signals you receive indicating a medium-to-high conductor. 

If you do want to travel to some natural gold fields, most likely they are abroad! A PI machine or High frequency VLF will be more suitable. PI machines, as mentioned earlier, fare better in hard conditions and mineralised land, and punch slightly deeper due to the lack of discrimination. Higher frequency FMF machines, like XPs HF2 coil, have an upper limit of 120Khz, which greatly increases target reaction to smaller pieces of metal. This is essential in gold hunting, as most of the gold you find will likely be less than 1g in mass. The increased sensitivity with the higher frequencies means detectors can still find these tiny pieces efficiently.

3. What is your Budget?

There are 3 ‘bands’ to metal detecting price wise:

Entry Level (£170–£300):

We consider these ‘entry-level’ machines—perfect for beginners. They offer the essential settings needed to start detecting, though they do lack some advanced features like notching and audio silencers. If those terms are unfamiliar, that’s a good sign you’re in the right place. These machines are designed to help you learn how metal detectors work while introducing you to the terminology and techniques of the hobby.

Mid-Range (£300–£700):

We would consider this the ‘Mid-range’ of detectors. The sweet spot. Many will upgrade into this band from the entry level detectors.. These detectors offer more features without overwhelming complexity. Great for detectorists with a bit of experience or strong interest. They are not necessarily the cutting edge of the technology offered in some high-end machines, but they will get the job done effectively. Some people will skip the entry level and jump straight in at the mid range. This is possible, and if you know detecting is a true passion of yours, we would consider doing the same. 

High-End (£700–£1800+):

These machines will be loaded with features, and many are supported with updates over the internet to fine tune the machine and expand its offerings over time. These machines also give you a range of convenience features, and while these won’t necessarily help you identify targets, they do make detecting a much more enjoyable experience. Things like lightweight materials, and cutting-edge tech. These machines are still beginner-friendly, although we would advise working with the pre-set programs before making any adjustments. Walk before you can run, and upgrading will only make things easier if you do! 

4. What is your Experience? 

If you have detected in the past and are coming back to the hobby after a number of years out of the game, don’t worry, we have you covered too. Depending on when you last used a detector, a lot may have changed- I’m looking at you, BFO Bill! Use your knowledge to help you, but remember things may have changed or work differently to how they used to. Feel free to get in touch with us. We’re happy to bring you up to speed.

5. How often will you go out?

Another factor to consider when buying a detector is how often you will be able to use it. If you are only planning to use it a few times a year, you don’t need a top-tier machine. An entry or mid-range option will serve you just fine. Going for a high-end machine may confuse you, as you won’t have enough time to learn it properly.

If you feel like you would be a weekly detectorist, Going for a mid range machine is probably the most sensible choice. Work your way with that machine, and if you still want high end features, it is something to work towards. Stick with one machine and really learn it. Chopping and changing only slows progress.. Eventually it will click and the learning curve gets easier. If you need more help understanding your machine, we are here to help. Give us a call and we can walk you through it. 

6. How comfortable are you with Technology?

Why is this important? Well, if you cannot work your way through the settings of the machine and learn some familiarity with menus etc, there is an uphill battle for you when it comes to learning the detector properly. You can buy the all-singing-all-dancing machine, but you need to be familiar with how to program it and alter settings to use it successfully. Don’t be ashamed to go with a basic machine to start with, and work your way up over time! 

There you have it—your crash course on choosing the right detector for your goals and experience level.

Ask yourself:

• Where are you planning to detect?
  
• What are you hoping to find?
  
• What’s your budget?
  
• How experienced are you?
  
• How often will you go out?
  
• How comfortable are you with tech?
  

Still unsure? Give us a call. Let us know your goals, and we’ll help you choose the right machine.